Do You Know Your Hair Porosity? (And Why the Glass of Water Test Is a Myth)

March 27, 2026 5 min read

If you've ever Googled "hair porosity test," you've probably seen the same advice: drop a strand of hair in a glass of water and watch what happens.

Sink = high porosity. Float = low porosity.

Here's the problem: it doesn't work ❌ Product buildup, oils, and even how recently you washed your hair can all change how a strand behaves in water.

What you're measuring with the glass of water test is surface residue, not your actual cuticle structure.

The better way to figure out your porosity?

Look at how your hair behaves — in the shower, while styling, and day-to-day. Your hair is telling you its porosity every single wash day. You just need to know what to listen for.

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What is hair porosity, anyway?

Porosity describes how open or closed your hair's cuticle is — the tiny overlapping scales that form the outer layer of each strand.

When those scales lie flat and tight, moisture has a hard time getting in (or out). When they're lifted or gapped, moisture moves freely in both directions.

Three factors shape your porosity: genetics, hair texture, and damage history. Curly and coily hair tends toward higher porosity because the twists and bends in the strand naturally lift the cuticle at various points.

Color, bleach, heat tools, and chemical treatments all raise porosity over time. And some people are simply born with a tighter or more open cuticle — regardless of their curl pattern.

Most people aren't a pure type either. Your roots may behave differently than your ends, especially if you've had years of heat or color on the lengths.


Low Porosity 💧

Your cuticle lies very flat and tightly sealed. Moisture has a hard time getting in — but once it does, it stays.

You probably have low porosity hair if:

  • Products tend to sit on your hair rather than absorb — you can sometimes see them beading up or just coating the surface
  • Your hair takes a long time to fully wet in the shower
  • You struggle with buildup even when you haven't used many products
  • Heavier creams and oils leave your hair feeling greasy or weighed down almost immediately
  • Your hair actually stays moisturized for a long time once you do get moisture in

What this means for your routine: Lightweight, water-based products are your best friends. Heat (a warm shower, a steamer, or even just applying products to soaking wet hair) helps open the cuticle enough to let moisture in.

Less is more — your hair doesn't need heavy layering, it needs the right lightweight formulas that won't pile up on a cuticle that can't accept them.

From our line: Most curl products — including several of ours — are too rich to work well for you.

We'll be honest: our line was built primarily for medium to high porosity hair, and we don't yet have a shampoo or refresher that's the right fit for a tightly sealed cuticle.

What we do have is one styler that was genuinely made for you: the Bamboo FlexiStrong Styling Jelly. Its star ingredient, polyquaternium-69, works on the surface of the hair rather than trying to penetrate a closed cuticle — giving you frizz control, flexible hold, and shine without buildup or heaviness.

Wash day 🚿

  1. Bamboo FlexiStrong Styling Jelly (applied to soaking wet hair)

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Medium Porosity ⚖️

Your cuticle has a balanced, moderate structure — not too tight, not too open. Moisture moves in and out at a healthy, even pace.

You probably have medium porosity hair if:

  • Products absorb fairly easily and your hair feels moisturized without much effort
  • Your hair holds styles well and behaves predictably
  • You don't notice extreme dryness or extreme greasiness
  • Color and chemical treatments tend to process evenly and give consistent results
  • Your moisture levels feel balanced — not constantly thirsty, not constantly weighed down

What this means for your routine: You have the most flexibility of any porosity type. A balanced routine with a mix of moisture and occasional protein works well.

The main thing to watch is preventing future damage — heat tools and color will slowly raise your porosity over time, so protecting what you have goes a long way.

From our line: This is exactly who our line was built for. Your hair can handle a full routine without being overwhelmed, and it responds predictably to both moisture and protein.

Wash day 🚿

  1. Moisturizing Shampoo
  2. Repairing Conditioner (rinse out)
  3. Flaxseed & Oat Protein Curly Hair Gel and/or Bamboo FlexiStrong Styling Jelly (if layering, apply the Flaxseed Gel 1st, Bamboo Jelly 2nd)

Pro tip: During humid months, add the Post-Wash Herbal Lemon Rinse after conditioning to help seal your cuticle against moisture fluctuation in the air

Refresh day ✨

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High Porosity 💦

Your cuticle has gaps and openings — either from genetics, damage, or both. Moisture gets in easily, but escapes just as fast.

You probably have high porosity hair if:

  • Products seem to soak in almost immediately and "disappear" — your hair drinks them up
  • Your hair dries very quickly after washing
  • Despite using lots of product, your hair still feels dry, frizzy, or thirsty within hours
  • Humidity causes significant frizz because your cuticle absorbs moisture unevenly from the air
  • Your hair feels rough or slightly bumpy when you run a strand between your fingers

What this means for your routine: Your hair needs moisture and something to seal it in — otherwise what goes in comes straight back out.

Rich conditioners, leave-ins, and sealing products applied while hair is still wet help close the cuticle and hold hydration in place.

Protein also helps by temporarily filling in the gaps of a lifted cuticle, giving your hair more structure and reducing moisture loss.

From our line: Our full range was built with you in mind. High porosity hair needs moisture, protein, and a surface seal — and the layering approach below delivers all three.

Wash day 🚿

  1. Moisturizing Shampoo
  2. Repairing Conditioner — rinse out for a lighter result, or leave in on days when your hair needs deeper nourishment
  3. If your hair still feels like it needs more: follow with the Post-Wash Herbal Lemon Rinse to actively close the cuticle and lock in what you just put in
  4. Flaxseed & Oat Protein Curly Hair Gel
  5. Bamboo FlexiStrong Styling Jelly (seal on top of the gel while hair is still wet)

Refresh day ✨

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A note on mixed porosity

Most people have more than one porosity on their head. Roots that have never been processed often behave like low-to-medium porosity, while ends that have seen years of heat and color can be significantly higher porosity. If your hair feels contradictory — greasy at the roots but dry at the ends, for example — mixed porosity is likely the explanation. In that case, treat each section accordingly: lighter products at the root, richer ones through the mid-lengths and ends.

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Not sure where you land?

The best test isn't a glass of water — it's washing your hair without any products and paying attention. How long does it take to get fully wet? Does conditioner absorb quickly or sit on top? How fast does it dry? How long does moisture last?

Your answers will tell you more about your porosity than any strand floating in a glass ever could.


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